02 Jul 2013 0 comments


Schiaparelli’s comeback

She was the biggest enemy of Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, an Italian who settled in Paris with her unconventional beauty and strong behaviour. Schiaparelli immediatly connected with the artists of the 20s and 30s parisian scene such as Jean Cocteau, Alberto Giacometti and Salvador Dalì. With Dalì she also created the extraordinary Dalì Lobster Dress.

She was a pioneer in the use of animal prints, shoulder pads and that very special point of shocking pink that was named after her namesake. She wasn’t actually a minimalist, not at all, she loved decoration and she was particularly focused on the waist up, that she believed being the most important part of dress – because it was that part of an outfit that you could see when a woman was sitting at the table reastaurant.

Her international clients had names as Katherine Hepburn or Marlene and she designed clothes that appeared in overs 30 films including “Moulin Rouge”.

There has been a lot of buzz and a great expectations for Schiaparelli’s comeback, unveiled on Monday at Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

After the brand was purchased by Diego Della Valle in 2007, infact, the show during Haute Couture in Paris was the first of the new era, under the creative direction of French couturier Christian Lacroix.

No less than 18 iconic creations: Lacroix wanted the debut show to be an homage to the woman that was to Schiaparelli the eternal opponent, Mademoiselle Coco Chanel herself.

And here we are at the time when the two myths come together at the end of a rivalry endured a life time. But this collection number zero was basically a tribute to Schiap.

Nothing is for sale. For that we have to wait until next January.

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